Mid-year Musings: On Surf and Life

“Ever since I started surfing, I realized that there is more to life than just work.”

I heard A say this during the 5-hour drive back to Manila. I was feigning sleep and listened in on the conversation. Her purported awareness was belittled by a snigger: How will you pay for the bills, he said. Or sustain yourself while living in a surf town? What, leave all responsibilities and comforts of the city behind? How is this even possible?

Admittedly, A hasn’t figured out what to do yet. All she knew was that she was dead tired doing 22-hour shifts at work and needed a break.

Surftown_Elegantly Wasted

While I totally would support her and her plans of quitting her job (I am a supporter of going on a sabbatical and taking a break if need be, for your sanity’s sake), I decided to let it simmer and think about my own battles.

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Early mornings in Cloud 9, Siargao

As much as I hate waking up extra early for work, early mornings at the beach is an entirely different story. The play of colors, the gentle breeze, the crashing waves, and the smell of saltwater is enough to get me out of bed to watch the sunrise.

So on our last day I woke up at 5:00 am and headed to Cloud 9 which was only a mere 5-minute walk from my hotel.


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Visiting the California Surf Museum

“Ain’t nothing baaad, about Carlsbad…”

My sister kept chanting this while on our way to San Diego from Los Angeles. It being my first vacation in the US, I was intent on catching a glimpse of the surf life in California. Good thing my sister, together with Candy and boyfriend Darius, was kind enough to drive me there.

I had only one request: that they take me to the California Surf Museum which was located a couple of blocks away from the iconic Oceanside Pier.


“The California Surf Museum serves as an international repository and resource center on the lifestyle sport of surfing by capturing, preserving, and chronicling its art, culture and heritage for the education and enjoyment of current and future generations.”

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